Polo in Argentina

Though nowhere near as popular as football, polo is a big sport in Argentina as well, specially compared to almost every other country in the world.

Argentina's Top 5 National Parks

Argentina covers an enormous area and therefore has some of the most diverse landscapes and climates in the world within its borders.

Outside BA: Peninsula Valdes

A peninsula on the Atlantic coast in the north east of Chubut Province, Valdes is one of the most important nature reserves in Argentina and since 1999 a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Top 10 best bars in Buenos Aires

The second biggest city in South America is indeed a city that never sleeps. Since clubs normally don’t open before midnight, what better way to start your evening with a visit to one of the 10 best bars in Buenos Aires.

The 5 best wineries to visit in Mendoza

Argentine wine is rightfully famous around the world and most visitors who come to Mendoza try to visit at least one vineyard to see the intricate process of making (and tasting) first class wine with their own eyes.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Fangio 100 years

This year marks the 100th anniversary of Juan Manuel Fangio's birth. The legendary racer won 5 Formula One world championships, a feat only surpassed by Michael Schumacher. This is even more impressive when you take into account that due to the Second World War halting racing for many years he only started in his first F1 race at the age of 37.

An age at which Schumacher already had won his 7 championships and retired for the first time. Before his years in F1, Fangio also won the Argentine Touring Car championship two years in a row in the time that this still involved racing from city to city on open roads, sometimes without pavement, so he was truly versatile.

Since 1986, the most impressive monument to Fangio is the beautiful museum in his birthplace Balcarce, about three hours south of the capital. It's a very worthwhile day trip if you have the time but the city of Buenos Aires itself has a few sights connected to the champion as well.

First there is the headquarters of the ACA, the Argentine Automobile Club, at Libertador 1850. Directly as you enter the main hallway you will see the blue and yellow Ferrari 166 that the ACA helped sponsor to give Fangio his first opportunity to race in Europe. Somewhat hidden away on the third floor (but freely accessible, just head for the elevator) is the small ACA Museum, that has some more cars and memorabilia related to Fangio and other famous Argentine racers, such as Carlos Reutemann.


After this visit you might find it time for some refreshments and if you follow Avenida Libertador back towards the Microcentro and stop at the intersection with Recoleta cemetery, you will find the La Biela cafe on the opposite corner at Quitana 600. A legendary place and one of the "bares notables" of the city, this is where Fangio and his racing friends spend many hours. So many hours apparently that the owners of this 1850's bar, even changed the original name to La Biela in 1942. Not surprising if you understand that La Biela is the Spanish word for an engine rod, a vital part in all cars, but especially in race engines with their high rpm's.

Finally Buenos Aires offers you the possibility to cross one more of the Fangio statues of your been- there-done-that list. Spanish sculptor Sabate made a famous statue of  Juan Manuel Fangio standing next to his Mercedes F1 car and in the end it became so popular that six versions of it were made and ended up in different locations around the world. At the F1 racetracks of Catalunya, Monza, The Nurburgring and Monaco, in front of the Mercedes-Benz museum in Stuttgart, Germany and the latest one in front of the Mercedes-Benz Argentina HQ at Azucena Villaflor 435 in Puerto Madero.
Fangio statue in Puerto Madero
Even though he raced in an era when up to 20% of the F1 racers in a season died or seriously injured themselves, Fangio lived to be 84 years old and for many years ran the Mercedes-Benz importer in Argentina. He also kept driving till the end of his life and when a law was introduced that people over 80 (which Fangio was by then) could no longer hold a license, he threatened to race from Buenos Aires to Mar del Plata in under two hours, a 400 kilometer distance! In the end an exception was made for the champion and he got to keep his driving license.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Only in Argentina: the new football season

Though I love Argentina with all my heart, it's renowned for it's many rules and huge bureaucracy which make sure that every document you need requires at least 3 visits to different locations that then try to make sure they never open on the same days of the week. It's also renowned for there almost always being a more practical unofficial way of getting the same thing done, resulting in almost everybody knowing somebody who will arrange what you need.

Permits, taxes, concert tickets or money changing, there's a "grey" way of doing or getting almost anything. The more and higher placed people you know, the bigger the things you can arrange. Today however something happened that even for Argentina is quite unique in it's audacity.

At the end of last football season, legendary local footballclub River Plate was relegated to the second division after performing terribly for quite some years already. As a protection against the big teams relegating, the results of the last 3 years (6 seasons) are measured in Argentina, so you really have to have quite a bad streak to relegate.

Riots during the River vs. Belgrano relegation match
Everybody was already preparing for the first year without a Boca vs. River Plate Superclasico between the two most popular teams, when the Argentine Football Association (AFA) announced today that as of immediately they have decided to merge the first and second division in to one big division with 38 teams. And so River Plate is no longer relegated! Teams will play in two divisions of 19 with the best 5 from each division then competing in play-offs for the championship.

The spokesman of the AFA even honestly announced that the only reason that they did this was because of "this whole mess with River". Turns out that they got a call from their television partner that they only pay this much for the rights because of the big clubs, so River needed to be reinstated.

Funny thing is that the television rights partner is the official government owned Canal 7. The Kirchner presidency bought the television rights as a political stunt under the name of "Futbol Para Todos" or "football for everyone", so everybody could watch all matches for free. Christina Kirchner earlier also personally decided that River fans could attend the last match of the season even though they were supposed to be banned after earlier riots, resulting in huge damage to the "Monumental" stadium

Canal 7, the state owned football rights holder
Seems that now they also try to placate the millions of River fans by interfering directly with the AFA. Did I mention it's an election year?

The press are up in arms and early opinion polls see huge majorities against this plan as well, so we will have to wait and see how it all turns out, but if the government really can get away with this one, it shows yet again what a long way we still have to come in this beautiful country to get rid of corruption. Here's hoping.

Update August 2nd 2012: Good news! It's only a few days later and after huge protests in the media and on social networks and a demonstration in front of the AFA headquarters today, it was announced that the plans have been cancelled and the current league system will stay in place after all.  

Monday, July 25, 2011

Winter in BA: Ice Skating

With lots of water and fairly cold winters (at least before global warming), every Dutch kid learns to skate from an early age and especially in speed skating we liked to think of ourselves as the true and only world experts (at least before Eric Heiden). Winter in BA, where the newschannels start to panic when what they call "arctic winds" make temperatures drop below 10 degrees Centigrade, therefore is always a bit of an anti climax for me.

Luckily this year the city government has decided to follow the example of many large cities around the world and install an open air ice rink for the the winter month of August. Opening this Wednesday the 27th of July and until the 25th of August, every day from noon, you will be able to show your best triple axel to the locals. Entrance is free and temporarily handing over your DNI (Argentine ID) or passport (if you happen upon a friendly official) should even supply you with free rental skates for an hour.



The ice rink is located at Plaza Uruguay in Recoleta at the corners of Tagle and Figueroa Alcorta. This is in front of the Buenos Aires branch of Tiffany's and the Canal 7 television studios, so that Rockefeller Plaza feeling is thrown in for free. Only the tree will be missing.

Should you miss the ice in other months of the year, Buenos Aires actually has a few permanent ice rinks as well, mostly left over from the eighties, when there was a short boom for a few years and there were almost 30. Now it's down to about 5 with My Way (Palermo), Ice Planet (Flores) and Winter (Caballito) the most conveniently located ones.

And if you should really get homesick for Canada or one of the Scandinavian countries, Buenos Aires even has it's own ice hockey league. Finally your well deserved chance to become the Argentinean Wayne Gretzky.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Dia del Amigo

If your spouse arrives at home on a weeknight at 2 AM "slightly" drunk and very happy, you might wonder what's going on. However, if she's Argentinean, she might very well be returning from yesterday's famous Dia del Amigo.

July 20th is the day that Argentina and some of its surrounding countries celebrate the Day of Friendship. The day on which you get together with your best friends. Those friends that you have known for many years, since highschool or from your first football team and will always be there for you, no matter what. Whatever the political, economical or atmospherical climate, the Portenos, as inhabitants of Buenos Aires are known, never need much incentive to go out and have a good tine, but Dia del Amigo is one of those days that every restaurant, bar and cafe in the city is especially crowded with people hanging out with their longtime friends and often making some new ones in the process.



The Dia del Amigo was created by Argentine musician and odontologist Enrique Febrraro after the successful lunar landing by Neil Amstrong, Edwin Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins on that same date in 1969. For him this new era of technology should also usher in a new age of making friends all over the planet.

Though in the end it became more popular as a day to celebrate existing friendships instead of forming new ones, in these days where people have hundreds of digital Facebook "friends", it's a very nice idea that we still have this analogue way to get in touch with our oldest and bestest friends. So next 20th of July don't forget to invite your best friend to a night of unbridled drinking to celebrate. The headache the next day at work is more than worth it. After all: that's what friends are for!

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

BA fashion on the cheap

In these times of a lower US dollar and with local inflation in Argentina still at around 20%, more and more tourists discover that Buenos Aires is no longer the affordable shopping paradise that it once was. Of course all the big brands are still there but normally at higher prices than in the States and even locally or Mercosur produced clothing is getting ever more expensive in downtown Buenos Aires.

Luckily Argentina still allows you to cut out the middle man on most goods. For produce you can get head to the Mercado Central just outside of town where all the groceries buy their products and for brand clothing there is of course the outlet district that I wrote about in an earlier post
Av. Avellaneda wholesale clothing district
However there is also a place in the city where all local boutiques and even street vendors go to buy their merchandise and that's Avenida Avellaneda. Between the blocks of about 3000 and 3500 and it's direct side streets in the neighborhood of Floresta. Literally 100's of shops stuffed full of clothes from bottom to ceiling line these streets, all competing for the wholesalers attention. Clothes here sell from 30 to 60% of their final sale prices in downtown Microcentro and the bazaar like neighbourhood of Once and there is something for every taste from jeans to evening wear.

upscale boutiques buy inventory here as well
Of course there are some catches to all this shopping goodness. First of all: get there early! As these stores cater to other vendors who have to be in their shops during regular business hours, most open around 7 am and even at 9am you can sometimes find long lines in front of the most popular ones.

Waiting in line for the best deals or newest styles
The second catch is that it's officially a wholesale location and quite some stores have signs in the windows that they will only sell to end consumers (as in you) on Saturdays. End consumers are referred to as "minorista" and business customers who buy for their own stores as "mayorista". On the other hand, buying 3 items in one store (not necessarily of the same model, color or size) normally makes you a mayorista in these stores, so you might as well avoid the Saturday crowds and get three new jeans for the price of one pair downtown on any weekday. Enjoy your shopping!