Friday, July 16, 2010

Tango at La Viruta

Most of my Argentinean friends are not interested in tango and for the younger crowd the amazing boliches (see earlier post) nowadays seem to hold more attractions. Though not the pervasive force it once was, tango is still everywhere to be found in Buenos Aires ranging from Florida street in downtown and the San Telmo antique market on Sundays to fancy upmarket shows which, though often very impressive, are more geared at tourists.




 Tango at Florida street attracts local attention as well

Though not a tango dancer myself I just love the melancholy and atmosphere it exudes and one of my favorite places to go and watch some tango and maybe even catch a quick lesson if nobody is watching is La Viruta.

Fancy dinner tango shows are aplenty

La Viruta is a Armenian community center that has seen better days and is at first sight somewhat rundown, but it has a lot to offer. With the basement being the main dancefloor and a restaurant upstairs, they offer dancing lessons almost every night (not just tango). From Wednesdays to Sundays, it becomes a milonga (tango dancehall) or baile as they themselves call it from around midnight till after daylight the next day.

 La Viruta's dancefloor

Dinner is served till around 3 in the morning and you can even finish your night of dancing with a light breakfast if you register your name when you arrive. People of all ages dance the night away and all levels are welcome so you will not feel so clumsy if you're not that experienced. Well, actually you will, but there will be other clumsy people as well, helping to share the shame.

 Authors' smug face not based on any actual tango skills

Seeing people well past retirement still going strong till the small hours of the morning really helps you feel that you truly can grow old gracefully and enjoy the hell out of life, so for that reason alone it is a great place. I also feel La Viruta really is BA in miniature: slightly scruffy at the edges, but filled with energy and amazing people. Make sure you check it out. Get there around 10 to pick up a beginners class, get some dinner afterwards and then return for the baile to show the world your moves


La Viruta
1366, Armenia St
Palermo Viejo

Hours: Classes vary, milonga Wed-Sun from 12am
Entrance: AR$15-$18

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